Shibori is, in principle, a dyeing technique in which fabric is immersed in dye—a method known as shinsen (immersion dyeing). Patterns are created by leaving areas undyed, remaining white against the colored background. The key lies in how beautifully one can prevent dye from seeping into these undyed sections.

Although often described as binding fabric with threads to resist dye, in practice, merely tying with threads does not produce sophisticated expression. Instead, precise and highly skilled techniques were developed to suit the form of a kosode, a type of Japanese robe with small sleeve openings, and these have been passed down to the present day.

Shibori conveys a depth and richness of color that penetrates the very fibers of the fabric—something that cannot be achieved by simply painting or tracing with dye. It exudes overwhelming intensity and presence.

There are countless variations of expression within shibori dyeing. The way the fabric is raised, the manner of threading, and the methods of stitching and binding give rise to a wide variety of patterns.

Among the processes of shibori dyeing, kukuri (binding) plays the most vital role. The tightly bound areas resist the dye even during immersion, and when the threads are finally removed, the hidden beautiful patterns are revealed. This intricate technique, born of humanity’s instinctive pursuit of beauty, is the foundation of Katayama Bunzaburo Shoten’s craft.

This photograph, taken around 1925, shows the production of dyed hair ornaments and decorative pieces. Tasks such as base pasting, stencil printing, binding, bleaching, dyeing, thread untying, and steaming were carried out in a division-of-labor system, just as they still are today.